Seven Days
Let’s make this official y’all: we’ve been living in Tokyo one week, and in case you’re wondering the future looks pretty good.
It’s been humid and hot, not too different from home in Nola, and the news from our realtor that the rainy season had just passed was not the news we were hoping for, but hey! There’s a typhoon on the way and we’re getting rain from Thursday-Saturday, with the temperature dropping to a high of 73 degrees. Japan, we have missed you!
We’re readjusting to walking everywhere, the weather, and figuring out our new neighborhood, but it has been so fun. Exhausting some days, but still fun. We’ve reacquainted ourselves with the familiar, learned some new things, and in retrospect I thought I’d share seven things from the past seven days that have made us happy happy happy.
1.) To the left, to the left
Etiquette dictates that you always stay to your left. On the stairs, escalators, elevators, sidewalks you always stay to your left (unless specifically indicated otherwise). It promotes a constant, less congested flow of traffic and creates order to busy places such as subway systems. We began observing this practice our first time living in Japan and everyone here does the same. It is an amazing thing to see people consistently following it, and in case anyone isn’t aware of this unspoken rule there are many indicators throughout the subway systems and on some sidewalks to be used as reminders. I know I’m a strange bird, but I enjoy order, especially since I tend to operate on a plane of organized chaos.
2.) Returning to Harajuku
Though the entrance to Harajuku is no longer this brightly flowered arch, not much has changed since our last visit eight years ago. The shops were still quirky (sometimes wildly different) and the cafes were just as fun and fabulous as we remembered. We did note a few new places such as a shop where a line wrapped down three floors of staircases to pet Shiba Inu puppies, an owl cafe, and a new Lolita costume store, but otherwise it was just as we left it. But that’s for another blog post!
3.) Godzilla
How could we move here and not bring Jackson to see his favorite of the Toho monsters? He loves kaijus and has been talking about seeing Godzilla for MONTHS. Thankfully we were able to deliver in Shinjuku. Sitting atop the Gracery Hotel this jolly green giant and his massive claws watch over Godzilla Dori (street). The hotel plays host to the Toho IMAX Cinema (and a Krispy Kreme) and once you’re inside the hotel, you’re invited to the 8th floor where you can see Godzilla up close and even make him roar! Did I mention you could dine on a chocolate Godzilla if you decide to take tea? To say someone had a banner day would be an understatement. It doesn’t get much better for our 10 year old than donuts and Godzilla.
4.) The Food
Do I really need to say anything else? Shannon’s been here longer than us and has had time to cultivate favorite locations for certain meals, and thanks to this we spent our first week enjoying some of the best ramen, yakitori, and sweet treats Tokyo has to offer. Chances are you’ve been spammed with pictures of them on my Instagram and Facebook pages, but if you haven’t, enjoy the sights below!
5.) Being Together
Most summers are quiet for us, but with Madeline returning to the States in August for college we have been given the biggest blessing by living in Tokyo. Every day is a new adventure and every day we get to share it as a family. The four of us. Every single day.
6.) The Art
There’s a fair amount of street art in Tokyo, despite the fact that it’s so clean. You’ll find it on closed store fronts, subway walls, near restaurants, even by the embassies. They tend to tell a story which is why I feel it is quietly accepted. I like this.
7.) The History
I am ashamed to say that the last time we lived in Japan I spent the majority of the time learning the different areas rather than the histories surrounding them. We picked up some, don’t misunderstand, but for the most part it was about Tokyo in the now. Call it culture shock or just wanting to absorb the vibes as they washed over us, this time around I’m making up for that mistake and making a better effort to cultivate a deeper appreciation for our home for the next few years.
You probably read my thoughts this past Monday morning, but before our move I ventured across the street from our hotel, a slight detour before grabbing coffees. Though the entire area is prime real estate and very metropolitan, beneath a protective mesh covering in the middle of a construction zone rests the shrine/tomb of local folk hero, Masakado-or more specifically, Masakado’s head. Depending on who you ask in Japan, he was a samurai or an ordinary man imbued with the spirit of one, a Robin Hood who stood up to the Emperor and helped those who were in need. In the eyes of the people he is a legend.
Here's the thing, if you look up his history you’ll find discrepancies in his story. The placard by his tomb sings his praises, painting him in an almost saintly light. It’s quite the contrary if you look online or read a book. He’s almost villainous in some stories.
What can be agreed upon is this: Masakado was a powerful man with a guiding, indomitable spirit who was eventually beheaded by the Emperor in 490 CE for his uprising. There was a curse placed upon his head, his rage sending the disarticulated limb flying (yes, flying) from the marketplace where it had been taken and used as a warning to others to Tokyo, where it would try to find it’s body. While it never happened, the people of Tokyo built a shrine to his head, never moving it, never daring to sell the parcel of land for fear of angering Masakado’s spirit.
I stood for a while watching people come and go from this spiritual monument, observing as they bowed, prayed, and paid literal homage to him. I’m not sure which piece of history to believe, but simply learning something new and taking in the reverence the people have for him was enough for me.
And so has our time together this week. We have done so much over seven days. So much! To think we have years more of exploration not only in Japan, but across Asia, makes my heart so very happy. If there’s something you’re interested in just let me know! I’ll be glad to share.
Take care, friends, and have a Happy Fourth of July.
